Armchair Traveller
All in the family
James Delingpole
‘Do you think we’ve made a terrible mistake?’ I said to the Fawn as we studied the map of Spain’s Costa Blanca (the bit between Valencia and Alicante), trying desperately to find stretches of coast that weren’t dominated by tower blocks, cement factories and urbanizacións. We’d paid the deposit, booked the flights, allocated the precious week’s holiday time. But what we hadn’t done beforehand, as perhaps we should have, was to make sure that the area we were about to visit wasn’t a complete toilet.
The thing was, the place we were going to stay — Caserío Del Mirador — looked so ravishing on the website that we couldn’t resist. It’s situated (well away from coastal development horror) at the top of a remote and beautiful valley above Xaló (Jalón) at the foot of a jagged mountain, with fantastic views down to the sea. It’s surrounded by olive and almond trees on terraces built over a thousand years ago by the Moors. The rooms are gorgeously done — spacious, decent bedlinen, no tack. And it’s quite brilliantly run by a delightful family team — laid-back, amiable Johnny Robinson and Sarah, his powerhouse of a wife who used to run Bloomberg’s London office and now dedicates all her considerable energies to feeding you good food, stopping your children dying and making sure your holiday is absolutely perfect.
So, no complaints on that score. But what about the rest of the Costa Blanca? The key here is not to look at a map or read any guide books because if you do, you won’t want to go. Not 40 minutes’ drive away is the high-rise hell of Benidorm and even the nearer coastal resorts — such as the old fishing village of Calpe — have been compre-hensively trashed by overdevelopment. Round and about you will come upon places like Gert And Daisy’s Pub — ‘The Original Fawlty Towers’ and Supermarket Lyn y Dave. You will shudder at the accents of the kids your offspring befriend on the beach.
Now I’ll explain why it’s still worth going and why you’ll love it. Number one attraction for me is the hidden-away pebble beach in the cove at Barraca — as beautiful and unspoilt as any I’ve seen in the Mediterranean. The water’s clear and great for snorkelling — except when the waves are up and the surfers move in — and on the cliff overlooking it is a restaurant which does the most fantastic paella and tapas for next to nothing. Every time I’m there, I pinch myself in disbelief.
Farther up the coast, on the way towards Valencia, is my other favourite beach at Oliva. This one is much more Atlantic in style — very long (ergo not too crowded) with tremendous breakers which are fun to jump with small children and to body-board-surf with older ones. There’s a restaurant nearby called Tasca Olivense which does a cheap fixed-price menu of proper local food, but if you can’t find it, don’t worry: in my experience any restaurant in these parts which isn’t on the tourist strip and does a menu of the day is going to hit the spot.
I haven’t mentioned the walking, which is the other big draw. Besides the thrilling razor-back ridge directly above Caserio del Mirador — on the other side is a famously picturesque pass called Col de Rates — there are several first-rate hikes within half an hour’s drive. There’s the Rock of Ifach in Calpe, the Montgo and the Bernia, all offering exhilarating climbs rising sheer above the coastal plain and the most dramatic views.
The other place I must mention, because both my kids declared, quite unprompted, that they thought it was the best thing they’d ever done ever, is the waterfalls called Fonts del Algar. In peak season, I gather, they’re beyond dreadful because they’re right on the Benidorm trail. Out of season, though, they’re a paradise of cascades and grottos and deep pools you can excitingly dive into and river trails you can scramble up. Seriously — go!
Though I can imagine young or old couples having a pleasant off-season walking holiday there, the thing I’d most recommend Caserio del Mirador for is a very reasonable, low-effort family holiday. Your children will almost certainly form a gang with the other (nicely brought up) children in the neighbouring apartments (five in all), leaving you free to get gently sozzled by the pool. If you can’t be bothered to self-cater, Sarah — for a bit extra — will do all your cooking for you, while Johnny keeps re-charging your glass with the local organic red wine. They push the ‘organic’ line a lot on their website, because that’s the sort of guff the punters like to read these days. Quite unnecessary, though. Caserio del Mirador is so wonderful it doesn’t need marketing.
First Published in the Spectator 26th May 2007
Alistair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay
Verdant mountains swoop around Johnny and Sarah’s dream home with staggering views, some stretching to the sea. Splash amongst the
hills in the fantastic pool, chat in comfort to your young, generous, humorous hosts under the bamboo canopy. Crisp, charming B&B
bedrooms are bathed in whites and browns; solar-lit shower rooms display minimalist lines. Two spacious open-plan apartments (above
which live the owners) are equally rustic-contemporary; the rest are self-contained. And you can tell that Sarah is a cook because your
kitchen has absolutely everything you need (except, of course, for Sarah, to fill it with the delicious aromas of her tapas).
Enjoy
conversational dinners brimming with local produce and wine (made by the mayor himself); tempting to eat in every night. Families will love
it here: the sandy coast is a breathtaking drive, there’s a donkey sanctuary nearby, bustling Jalon (true Spain) is five minutes away, and
there are fantastic walks in the hills. Best of all are the lazy days spent here, at this charming and happy home, in the company of Johnny,
Sarah and their three young children.
Baby Friendly Boltholes Website
The other place I must mention, because both my kids declared, quite unprompted, that they thought it was the best thing they’d ever done ever, is the waterfalls called Fonts del Algar. In peak season, I gather, they’re beyond dreadful because they’re right on the Benidorm trail. Out of season, though, they’re a paradise of cascades and grottos and deep pools you can excitingly dive into and river trails you can scramble up. Seriously — go!
Though I can imagine young or old couples having a pleasant off-season walking holiday there, the thing I’d most recommend Caserio del Mirador for is a very reasonable, low-effort family holiday. Your children will almost certainly form a gang with the other (nicely brought up) children in the neighbouring apartments (five in all), leaving you free to get gently sozzled by the pool. If you can’t be bothered to self-cater, Sarah — for a bit extra — will do all your cooking for you, while Johnny keeps re-charging your glass with the local organic red wine. They push the ‘organic’ line a lot on their website, because that’s the sort of guff the punters like to read these days. Quite unnecessary, though. Caserio del Mirador is so wonderful it doesn’t need marketing.
Cookie Magazine, Staying There in Europe
Best Family Feast
Caserío del Mirador, Jalon, Spain
The owners of this inn, who have three kids themselves spend Sundays cooking up a massive pan of paella over an out door fire. Parent trade travel secrets while the kids play in the sandbox or the pool or play with the goats that wander in the field.
Reviewed 7 May 2007 by Wayne Hill
1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?
The best part of our holiday, and therefore the most memorable thing, is the welcome we received from Sarah and Johnny Robinson at this accommodation.
The accommodation was so completely perfect for a family with young children. The Robinsons have young children themselves, and staying at their guest house felt more like being a family friend than a hotel customer.
2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?
Don't be shy; if you need anything at all while you are staying with the Robinsons, just ask! They had supplies for beach trips, a backpack for carrying our toddler on a hike, a baby monitor for when it was naptime, as a few examples. I borrowed her son's toy cars, her shawl one chilly evening, and the list could go on. They are just so committed to making you comfortable during your stay.
3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?
Yes. Power is by generator and solar power of their own production, and it helps to bear this in mind and try to minimize your own usage.
4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?
I would definitely give it 5 stars. The scenery was absolutely beautiful. The decision to stay at this accommodation, instead of at a beachside hotel, was the best decision we could have made. It's an easy (and breathtaking!) 30 minute drive to the beach, so you can have as much beach time as you want. But instead of being stuck in the developed and tourist-y towns, at the end of the day you are relaxing in a beautiful, secluded, peaceful place in the middle of 'real' Spain. We recommend a holiday at this accommodation to anyone who likes to stay off the beaten path--especially families with infants, toddlers, and/or school age children. After all, its much easier to stay off that beaten path when your kids are happy!
Reviewed 14 Apr 2007 by Lyndsey Woraker
We had a wonderful holiday with Sarah & Johnny at this accommodation, despite terrible weather!
1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?
Location of villa, warm welcome from hosts and wonderful experience that children had on their first holiday abroad.
2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?
Don't miss the Sunday lunch - great paella cooked for all guests by Sarah
3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?
Yes all produce was bought locally and hosts obviously had a very good relationship with the locals.
4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?
***** Whole family loved holiday. Rate it 11 out of 10 as exceeded all expectations and we have booked to go back next year!
Reviewed 23 Aug 2006 by Sue Jones
1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?
Sarah and Johnny are most generous and hospitable hosts and we couldn't have felt more welcome. They are particularly well informed about the area, where to go and what to see. We loved to sit and watch the evening glow disappear from the sky and then see the lights twinkle in the distant hillside villages, whilst enjoying a glass of local wine. So peaceful and away from it all.
2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?
This is a fantastic place - wish it had been there when our children were small. It surely must be the most hassle and stress free holiday ever. Use the baby listening service, and just relax. There are beaches around but I guess you won't want to venture far. This has it all.
3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?
Absolutely. Johnny and Sarah will direct you where to purchase all the local produce as indeed they do themselves and they are committed to everything environmentally friendly.
4. Any other comments?
Absolutely idyllic! (we have stayed here 3 times - that must say something!).
Siobhan comments:
I found this on Netmums and we spent a lovely 2 weeks there last Summer. Our apartment was gorgeous and gave us self catering privacy while we could send the children up to "the main house" every morning for fresh croissants and milk. We met some lovely guests and most evenings the grown ups all dined together (cooked by our charming hostess Sarah) and lashings of local wine (made by the Mayor!). Days spent by the lovely swimming pool or driving to explore the beaches. Bliss.
Tiffany comments:
Caserio del Mirador (www.villaJalon.com) is a little piece of heaven and we would unhesitatingly recommend it to anyone - but most especially to parents of young (and even not-so-young) children. The kids can play safely while the parents chill. It's about as un-stressful as a family holiday could be and though you could spend a whole holiday lounging by the pool with its gorgeous views, there's plenty to do elsewhere: waterfalls to play in; mountains to climb; beaches of every variety from wave-swept, empty Atlantic-style ones to crescent shape ones packed with kiddie entertainment. Oh, and the bedrooms are jolly nice too and Sarah's cooking is brilliant.
Ali S-J comments:
We have just booked our fourth – yes, fourth – year running with Sarah and Johnny Robinson at Caserio del Mirador. The setting is inspirational, the company as hands-on or hands-off as you want it to be. My five-year-old always assumes 'going to Spain' means going to visit Caserio del Mirador and would be disappointed to go anywhere else. She loves playing in the pool with the kids and disappearing for hours on end into dressing up land upstairs... PS Try culture in Valencia, history in the mountains and thrills at Terra Mitica. Lots of nice pictures at www.VillaJalon.com of happy kids and lazy days! Roll on August 2007!
Reviewed 1 Jul 2007 by Sarah Williams
1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?
The fun meals we had as a group and also the delicious meals that were cooked for us on the terrace outside our apartment which meant no cooking for us (Although there are the facilities). We were able to put our daughter down to sleep and have the monitor on as the terrace is right outside the door so we had a romantic meal which we are never able to do!!
2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?
Research the flight times we flew to Valencia as better flight times for us although Alicante is slightly closer.
3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?
The Villa is set in the mountains and uses only recycled water and solar powered/ generated electricity. All rubbish is recycled where possible so having minimum impact on the environment.
4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?
The holiday was excellent we intend to go back next year when our daughter is a bit older. The Villa is situated in a perfect location far enough away from the hustle and bustle but close enough for day trips... yes we even went to Benidorm for the day but only to the fantastic Zoo they had!
Travelling was no hassle with a 7 month old baby, Sarah and Johnny provided a play matt, high chair, cot, toys and a blender and were on hand to help with anything at all times.
|
